Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Les Pays Cathare

This past weekend I went away with a colleague from Bellevue, Martine, to her house in the country. Five years ago she bought this incredible, 200 year old (!!!) house in a small village called Roquefort in the middle of the Corbiere mountains about 2 hours outside of Toulouse and is in the process of renovating it. She, her 21 year old daughter Lolie, her daughter's boyfriend Baptiste, her dog Tiago, and I spent Friday and Saturday night there and left Sunday evening.


We spent the weekend going on amazing hikes in the mountains, along the Mediterranean Sea, and through vineyards, it was like something out of a dream. Some interesting history about the area is that it is known as the Pays Cathares, or Cathar Country. The Cathares were a religious group who in the 11th century parted ways with the Catholic church and built these incredible castles and chateaus in the Languedoc region of Southern France. The Catholic church eventually waged war against the Cathares and exterminated them from the region but ruins of their chateaus and trails remain.

More info on the Cathars :
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathar

Saturday morning Martine went out and brought us back fresh croissants and chocolatines from a bakery in town, then she and I went for a hike that started right from the end of her street and led immediately up into the mountains. The landscape is very wild, rugged, and windy. She told me it is a typical Mediterranean climate and landscape. After a while walking she bent down and picked a sprig of a plant we had been walking amongst for a while and told me to smell it, it was Thyme, then she picked some Rosemary. We had been walking in a sea of herbs the entire morning and I hadn't realized it. There were also olive trees and fig trees, it was gorgeous.  Then we descended into some vineyards that have begun to turn red and orange like the foliage in New England. The vendanges, or grape harvest, is in September, but there are still plenty of grapes left on the vines, which are much sweeter and full of sugar because they have been left on the vine past the traditional harvest. In France they make a sweet wine that people drink as an aperatif made from these grapes. The leftover grapes are also for the public to take, stemming (pun intended, hehe) from a tradition of letting the poor townspeople come pick the leftover grapes after the vendanges.


That afternoon the 4 of us drove around the area and stopped off at a town by the sea called Leucate. Martine and I then did an hour long hike along the cliffs by the sea and Lolie and Baptiste took the car and picked us up in the next town over. Toulouse in general is windy,  but I have never felt wind this strong along the water, it literally was pushing us along the path and forced us to jog at some points.

Saturday we also stopped at this house on the side of the road that is half house half museum. Outside there is a sign that says "Baleine," or whale. The man who lives there found a whale washed up along the shore, and dried out the skeleton (or however you do it) and has reconstructed the whole thing in his basement. I know, SO random, but really cool.

Sunday Martine and took the path of the Cathares through some vineyards and picked some more grapes. That afternoon the 4 of us, plus Martine's friend, went on my favorite hike of the weekend which took us through the mountains, vineyards, and to a little cave or grotte.

It was such an incredible weekend, hope you enjoy the pictures! I have created an album on Snapfish if you want to see more:


http://www2.snapfish.com/snapfish/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=2898981023/a=870321023_870321023/otsc=SHR/otsi=SALBlink/COBRAND_NAME=snapfish/

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